The Garonne and the Dordogne

Thursday and one of our most interesting days so far in this wonderful Dordogne region.

First of all we woke up to this image outside our bedroom
window - the Dordogne River in full mist. Compare that to the view from last night - on the right.

We started off by going to the Chateau & Jardines des Milandes in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, built in the 15th Century and originally the home of the Caumonts, but most famously the long-time home of Josephine Baker. Again no photos allowed inside BUT we did not buy the English version, so the only images are of the massive Chateau and the impressive gardens, for your pleasure.


Josephine was born in St Louis in 1906 and came to France in 1925 at age 19, already

twice married and divorced. She would keep her second husband's last name, Baker, for the rest of her stage career.

She became famous in Paris for performing her "Dance of the Wild" at the Folies Bergère, with nothing but a string of sequined bananas around her waist. One of the original strings is on show in the Chateau as are many of her stage dresses and formal wear. She renounced her American citizenship and adopted French citizenship when she married for a third time in 1937. Her stage, singing and movie career became more and more professional and she soon was a sensation in France, even without the nudity.

Apparently Ernest Hemingway was much impressed and exclaimed that she was "the most sensational woman anyone ever saw".

During the Second World War Josephine worked for French military intelligence by passing on snippets of information that she gathered from Axis diplomats and others, in the show business circles she moved in.

After Germany invaded France in 1940, Josephine moved to her new rented home at the Chateau Milandes in the Dordogne region and started to smuggle in arms for the Resistance movement, housing fugitives and embarking on a world tour during which she would get messgaes to the British about German and Italian troop movements. After the war Charles De Gaulle decorated her with many French military and civilian honor, including the 'Croix de guerre',  the Rosette de la Résistance and she was made a Chevalier of the Légion d'honneur.

In 1947 she purchased the Chateau and, over time, adopted 12 children who were brought up at the Chateau. The building is laid out as a tribute to her legacy. her career and her eventual downfall into bankruptcy. 

In 1968 Josephine, broke and in poor health. lost her beloved Chateau which, together with all the furniture, was sold by profiteers for a third of it's value. She was locked out of the house and forced to sleep on the kitchen steps until she was forced off the property. Josephine was, however, offered an apartment in Monaco by her old friend Princess Grace (Kelly).

In April 1975 broke and needing money, she performed a revue in Paris of her famous act, celebrating her 50 years on the stage. The opening night audience included Sophia Loren, Mick Jagger, Shirley Bassey, Diana Ross, and Liza Minnelli.

Josephine, exhausted and in extremely poor health, died 4 days after the performance, of a cerebral hemorrhage.

We spent over 2 hours at the Chateau, including a garden
show of Falconry by the game keepers. On the left is the impressive Dordogne forested region, taken from the Chateau grounds. On the right, the falconry show in the gardens.



Then back to Sarlat de Caneda for some shopping and back home for an hour's river cruising down the Dordogne. A full and rewarding day's excursions have left us panting for some refreshment.